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Not only was it Michael Jordan’s first signature sneaker from Nike, but it was the beginning of Nike’s ingenuity when it comes to storytelling. The Air Jordan 1 began as a basketball sneaker, found a second life with skateboarders in the 1980s, launched the retro crazed world that we live in today where new colorways and collaborations seem to release every week. The infamy and the instant cool-factor of the Jordan 1, and later Air Jordan, was a fashion and marketing alley-oop—the pinnacle for an athlete branded product and a feat that wasn’t surpassed by anyone else. The result is that the Jordan 1s are some of the most coveted shoes today.
Before Nike
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Though His Airness was a fan of Converse during his school days, he did not envisage a signature contract working out with them as they already had Magic Johnson and Larry Bird as signature athletes. We’ll be teaching you about the story of the Air Jordan 1, from the design process to its importance in popular culture. Without further delay, this is everything you need to know about the Air Jordan 1.
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It was a resounding success, with Nike quickly selling out its first-ever Air Jordan around the US. Retailing for a fairly expensive $65, Nike predicted that it would only sell 100,000 pairs. Nike would, in fact, go on to sell 3-4 million pairs, topping $55 million in sales in May 1985. The Air Jordan 1 was so popular that it had a waiting list way before its official release date of July 1st, making it one of the most sought after products in Nike’s history.
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Whilst the Air Jordan 1 may be arguably the most iconic sneaker of all time, it was not one of Michael Jordan’s favourites. As many sneakerheads will know, the story behind the Jordan 1 is as much an important part in MJ’s career as his legacy with the Chicago Bulls. For the second instalment in our Behind the Design series, we’re delving deep into the past of the AJ1. The story of the Nike Air Jordan 1 begins well before the sneaker ever became public knowledge.
Air Jordan 1 Retros/“Remastered Series”
Moore took significant cushioning out of the shoe without sacrificing the Air unit, which was placed in the shoe’s rubber midsoles. To further enhance comfortability, Moore implemented a premium leather upper that could provide a worn-in feel from the moment Jordan inserted his feet into the shoes. While Jordan dawned a very similar shoe in the Nike Air Ships during the production of the Air Jordan 1’s early in the regular season, Jordan would eventually flaunt his signature shoe on during the season. Converse was in the mix as well, with Jordan having worn the Boston brand's shoes throughout college due to the deal North Carolina coach Dean Smith (pictured with Jordan at a press conference above) had with the company. Converse was prepared to market Jordan alongside its other stars Magic Johnson and Larry Bird, but was offering nothing new in terms of footwear ideas. 1985 was a great year, not only because Michael Jordan was rookie of the year and played in the All-Star game, but because the Air Jordan 1‘s were released.
First Retros
The signature logo for the Air Jordan 1, as well as the Air Jordan 2, is the Wings mark, which Moore first drew while sitting on an airplane having been inspired by the plastic wings captains often give to children. Prior to the NBA, Michael Jordan had played in Converse sneakers throughout his college and international career. The famous Chevron logo can be seen on his feet in photographs of his game-winning shot from the 1982 NCAA Championship Game as a freshman. That shoe was the Converse Pro Leather, and Jordan was also known to wear the All-Star while playing for the University of North Carolina. One of the 25 most expensive sneakers ever sold is a pair of the Converse Fastbreak Mid worn by Jordan in the 1984 Olympic Gold Medal Game, which fetched $190,000 at auction in 2017. The Air Jordan 39 refers back not only to the Air Jordan 9, but also the Air Jordan 29.
Both the “Bred” and “Royal” colorways were reissued, while Japan also got a few new and exclusive colorways under the CO.JP banner. Even though the demand was now there, Jordan Brand would limit the number of Air Jordan 1 releases for both new and original colorways. The proliferation of variants we’re accustomed to today wouldn’t begin in earnest for another decade, and now many sneakerheads would argue that the Air Jordan 1 should return to being released on a more limited basis.
The Technology
It was the first basketball sneaker to feature a high-top design, which provided ankle support to the wearer. The design also featured Nike’s Air technology, which provided cushioning and comfort. The sneaker was lightweight and durable, making it perfect for basketball players. Moore worked to develop 13 more colorways that season, including the simple but sweet Carolina blue colorway. Yet, still, Jordan was not satisfied with the shoe’s design due to the thickness of the sole caused by the large Air unit.
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Since then, interest has exploded, with countless Air Jordan 1 colorways and variants popping up, making it one of the most popular sneakers of all time. At least 23 different OG Air Jordan 1 models and colorways were released, but there is no way to confirm exactly how many came out. There were low-cut Jordans, metallic-colored Jordans, baby Jordans, and even a canvas version called the AJKO (most people believe "KO" stands either for “knockout” or “knock-off”). Photographer Chuck Kuhn and Jordan did a two-day shoot in Chicago with both colorways, but the sneakers were yet to feature the classic Wings logo.
In the early 1980s, Nike Co-Founder was on the verge of flipping the footwear business upside down like the waffle soles he and Bill Bowerman had turned into running shoes in the decade prior. The ’80s were different, though, and with competition rising around them, Phil Knight had the foresight to see that Nike wasn’t in the shoe business, they were in the entertainment business. The numerical rigor in the Air Jordan 39 extends even to the colorways, which number nine in total (for now). The number nine works on another level as a nod to one number Jordan wore in the Olympics—like all big sneaker companies, Jordan Brand is working on tying its product to this summer’s Olympic games in Paris. Affleck has put himself forward as a mass owner of covetable sneakers over the past few years.
The design of the Jordan 1 has had a lasting impact on sneaker culture and fashion, and 35-years after it was released Nike received an official patent on the design. It has been re-released numerous times over the years, and each release has been met with excitement and anticipation from sneakerheads around the world, the most expensive Jordan 1, the Nike Air Jordan 1 Retro High Colette Au Revoir is valued at $20,000. The sneaker has been the inspiration for countless other sneaker designs, and its influence can be seen in the designs of many of today’s most popular shoes. The Jordan 1’s enduring popularity is due to its iconic design and its association with basketball legend Michael Jordan, whose endorsement of the shoe helped make it a cultural icon. Its various colorways, collaborations with designers, and limited edition releases have only added to its appeal among sneaker enthusiasts and collectors. Additionally, its historical significance as the first-ever Air Jordan sneaker has cemented its place in sneaker history and pop culture.
Upon returning from injury, he’d play in several different versions of the Air Jordan 1, including custom ankle straps and sole units borrowed from the Nike Dunk and Air Jordan 2. Some of those “Frankenstein”-esque pairs worn in-game by Jordan are also among the most expensive sneakers ever sold. Peter Moore designed the Air Jordan 1, which shares much of the same DNA as the Air Ship. Although the Jumpman logo originates from a campaign image for the Air Jordan 1, which itself was a recreation of a shot from Life magazine in which Jordan was wearing New Balance sneakers, the famous mark wouldn’t appear on a shoe until the Air Jordan 3.
The first time Jordan wore his own sneaker during an NBA game was in his 11th game, a Nov. 17, 1984 matchup at home against the Philadelphia 76ers. Its white, red, and, black “Chicago” colorway did indeed conform to the NBA uniform regulations and was the version Jordan wore most on the court. The only other colorway Jordan would wear in-game was the “Black Toe,” which features a different arrangement of the same colors. Meanwhile, the “Bred,” short for “black and red,” colorway taking after the banned Air Ship was only worn by Jordan on an NBA court during his appearance in the 1985 Slam Dunk Contest at All-Star Weekend. By the time Jordan’s Rookie of the Year season concluded, his shoe had already generated millions of dollars in sales for Nike while cementing a star power that would only continue to grow. The Air Jordan 1 is arguably the most important sneaker in the history of footwear.
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